Bespoke Derbys

The Derby

The Derby is a shoe with an open lacing system. This means that the quarters (eyelet facings for the laces) are attached over the vamp (the front section of the shoe). The Derby’s popularity began in continental Europe where it was widely used as a sporting or hunting boot. The style soon became popular for both casual and  dress shoes, but maintains some of its rustic sense of origin, especially when paired with broguing (the use of holes for decoration). Federico Badia combines the rustic, masculine charm of the derby with a sleek, Italian elegance. This provides customers with a strong and versatile shoe that distinguishes its wearer through impeccable fit and detail.  The Derby’s open lacing system provides comfort for shoe-lovers who enjoy using thick socks in winter and thin socks in summer, because the distance between the two quarters is easy to adjust.

An interesting fact:

Derby shoes were first known as “Bluchers” after the Prussian field marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blucher, the Duke of Wahlstadt (1742-1819), who joined forces with the Duke of Wellington to defeat Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 and ordered laced shoes of this type to be made for his soldiers.

In consultation with the client, Federico makes Derbys in a variety of styles, which include:

To guarantee complete comfort and satisfaction, Federico makes all his shoes by measurement. This requires a visit to his shop in Orvieto to have measurements taken. Once these initial measurements are taken, no return or trial visit is necessary. When the shoes are complete, they can be shipped worldwide. A custom shoe last is built specifically for each client and kept by Federico at the shop. This makes the process of reordering simple. If you are interested in making an appointment to have measurements taken and shoes ordered, please contact Federico to learn more at

To learn more about Federico’s process, visit the Shoemaking page.

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